RR3 Wiki:Real Racing 3 Tips and FAQ
The intention of this page is to keep tips and FAQ for Real Racing 3 in one place, which will hopefully help people race this game!
Description
Real Racing 3 (RR3) is a massive portable game for Android or Apple (iOS) devices, it was launched with version Announcing Real Racing 3 (v1.0) in February 2013.
| “ | Real Racing 3 is an award-winning franchise that sets a new standard for mobile racing games – it really must be experienced to be believed.
Real Racing 3 features a continuously expanding roster of officially licensed tracks, a 22-car grid, and over 100 meticulously detailed cars from manufacturers like FERRARI, PORSCHE, CHEVROLET, LAMBORGHINI, MERCEDES-BENZ, BUGATTI, and AUDI. Plus Real-Time Multiplayer, Social Leaderboards, Time Trials, Ghost Challenges, and innovative Time Shifted Multiplayer™ (TSM) technology, allowing you to race anyone, anytime, anywhere. |
” |
— Firemonkeys Android play page.
| ||
History of RR3
Read the following page for the full history and release notes of RR3 History
General Tips
Strategy
Real Racing 3 is a massive game designed by Firemonkeys (FM) to make you want to spend real money on R$ and 
. Many in this Wikia community have posted comments what they have managed to reach the end of the game without spending any real money. The bottle neck currency is . Read this article on strategy for more information:
- Strategy - Including why gold is precious.
- Upgrades Strategy For 100% Completion - Requirements and rewards for 100% completion
Time Shifted Multiplayer (TSM)
Read the following about how the time shifted multiplayer affects the AI of the bots, why it's important to win by small margins and how to slow bots down:
- Time Shifted Multiplayer - TSM algorithm and AI, whys it's important to win by small margins and how to slow bots down
List of Offline Bots Names
This is the bots order (from faster to slower), and their countries:
| No. | Offline Bots Names with Country | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dr Perriwinkle (Sweden) | Outrageously hard |
| 2 | auralpod (Switzerland) | |
| 3 | Rattlesnack (Italy) | |
| 4 | darknezz (Japan) | |
| 5 | MiceOrMan (France) | |
| 6 | stayFrosty (Spain) | very hard |
| 7 | HoodooVoodoo (Germany) | |
| 8 | Keed07 (Belgium) | |
| 9 | SpeedyParkins (Great Britain) | |
| 10 | Eraser (Canada) | |
| 11 | The Raven (USA) | |
| 12 | Richie Rich (Singapore) | hard |
| 13 | Ghast (Russia) | |
| 14 | fortz99 (New Zealand) | |
| 15 | Modesto Lingerfelter (Netherlands) | |
| 16 | JimBling (Greece) | |
| 17 | merrygold (Denmark) | |
| 18 | _thefreak_ (China) | a bit hard |
| 19 | Sparx (South Africa) | |
| 20 | Bronson Guthry (Serbia) | |
| 21 | drollted (Sweden) | |
| 22 | PerturB (Switzerland) | |
| 23 | jojo76 (Italy) | |
| 24 | morkRING (Japan) | |
| 25 | oooo! (France) | normal |
| 26 | Oddly (Spain) | |
| 27 | LOLOLOL (Germany) | |
| 28 | JKR (Belgium) | |
| 29 | Jack Knife (Great Britain) | |
| 30 | Existent (Canada) | |
| 31 | The Brioche (USA) | not so easy |
| 32 | Kranger (Singapore) | |
| 33 | Pungent Sauce (Russia) | |
| 34 | HeAt (New Zealand) | |
| 35 | mintCrystal (Netherlands) | |
| 36 | turnipage (Greece) | |
| 37 | Propeller Factory (Denmark) | easy |
| 38 | FishMang (China) | |
| 39 | Aaron Doyle (South Africa) | |
| 40 | Weaver (Serbia) | |
| 41 | Eric Hertz (Sweden) | |
| 42 | Batliner (Switzerland) | |
| 43 | Tiesha Francione (Italy) | very easy |
| 44 | Gayle Lokan (Japan) | |
| 45 | Jerrell Omo (France) | |
| 46 | Rosamund Mahula (Spain) | |
| 47 | Brosig (Germany) | |
| 48 | Dane Rabenold (Belgium) | |
| 49 | Marcel Corrigeux (Great Britain) | |
| 50 | Moises Gabby (Canada) | obscenely easy |
Methods to slow bots down
The methods seem to change from event to event, others are fixed goals, so bot management doesn't work, in them.
Start with the best method, watch the bot times are reducing, if retry stops slowing / lowering the bots try continue and re-enter, go down the list and try each one in turn.
- As soon as the red light turns green, pause, quit and retry. (nil car damage)
- As soon as the red light turns green, pause, quit, continue and re-enter (nil car damage)
- As soon as the race starts cross the start line, wait for the timer (in Endurance and Elimination events or come 4th in Drag Race) to run out. (low car damage)
- As soon as the race starts pass the last place car / position (in Endurance and Elimination events) then stop and wait for the timer to run out. (low car damage)
- Finish the event in a very slow time / distance / speed. (medium/high car damage)
More details per event:
| Track | Recommended method to slow bots | Damage Taken |
|---|---|---|
| Autocross | Each time you run an Autocross event, set a slow time of of 4th or less, either retry or continue and re-enter. If you retry ignore the bot's names, that splash up before the race, they will be changed at the end of the race, you will notice, after each time of running, the target time is increased. If continuing doesn't increase the bot's time try repeating and vice a versa. Do not set a low time at the line, tilt B will give better control to coast before the line, if you are too quick or brake and wait at the line, smashing the time will increase the AI. |
Minimal |
| Cup, NASCAR & Formula E |
As soon as the race starts, pause, retire, confirm, either retry or continue and re-enter, if you retry ignore the bot's names, that splash up before the race, they will be changed at the end of the race. Also ignore the bots times on the final screen too, they are based on an average lap time, as you quit their times are based on a standing start, as an average. Instead use the times as a guide, with each retry or continue the bots times should increase. If continuing doesn't lower the bot's time try repeating and vice a versa. OR If you have a broken car run the race a few times, each time you lose you will still get R$ and Fame, place 4th or less, repeating or continuing and re-entering will lower the bots. Once ready to go, get to 1st place as quickly as possible and try to slow the bot's down, either spin them out or park in sharp bends / chicanes and stop them passing. By setting a low time, but still coming first, it's still possible to still lower the AI of bots, think about a Time Trial time, if you set a set a slow time it lowers the AI. In case of Formula E, keep driving until your battery goes down to zero and let the bot behind you approach you as you cross the finish line without overtaking you. |
Minimal /None. |
| Drag Race | Start the race, press go and leave the car is first gear, do not click repeat, as this will repeat the current race, against the same bot, instead choose continue, then either retry or continue and re-enter. You will see the opponents will change to lower ones. Once ready to go, don't undo the lowing work by setting a fast time, instead use the gears to slow the car, once passed the bot go up through the gears, but watch the bot doesn't speed up / close the gap, or if close to the line go down a gear to brake. |
Minimal |
| Elimination | Elimination events are one of the best opportunities to lower the bots AI, deliberately lose a few times, do not move at the start (Tilt B), wait for the 20 second timer to run out, then repeat or continue and re-enter. You will see the opponent will change to lower ones. If you retry ignore the bot's names, that splash up before the race, they will be changed at the end of the race. Once ready to go, get to first place and slow the bots as per the cup event. |
None |
| Endurance | Endurance events are one of the best opportunities to lower the bots AI deliberately lose a few times, change the controls to Tilt B, when the lights go green do not move, wait for the timer to count down the 60 seconds. Either retry or continue and re-enter. If you retry ignore the bot's names, that splash up before the race, they will be changed at the end of the race. Note the distance is reducing each time. If continuing doesn't lower the bot's distance try repeating and vice a versa. It's possible to get all 7 bots distance to 1.0 mi. Another point, the online and offline bots can wildly vary on Endurance races, especially with fiends distance'. It's normally much better to race Endurance races offline, before going to the Endurance event go offline (aeroplane mode), if you've already started an Endurance race online, exit back to the main menu, if your logged into FB / G+ / Weibo, goto settings and logout, then force close, go offline and relaunch RR3, bots should now be offline ones. Once ready to go, don't undo the lowing work by setting a good distance, instead once passed the 1st marker, park up (tilt B) and wait for the timer to count down. |
None |
| Head To Head | As soon as the race starts, pause, retire, confirm, either retry or continue and re-enter. Repeat multiple times, ignore the bot's time on the final screen, it is based on an average lap time, you can use it as a guide that the bot's time is reducing. Once ready to go, don't undo the lowing work by setting a good time, instead once in 1st place, use the same technique as cup events, slow the bot down. Quite often a single bot will not push you once stopped, so you can easily hold it up for 20 seconds, then go for it. Wait at the line to reduced the time set, but still win. |
1 lap of damage /None |
| Hunter | As soon as the race starts, pause, retire, confirm, either retry or continue and re-enter, repeat multiple times, each time you repeat the distance to the 1st place will increase. Once ready to go, don't undo the lowing work by setting a good distance, instead once passed the 1st place marker, slow down and maintain a small distance advantage ahead, when near the line slow to reduce the distance, but still win. It's also possible to spin out the SILVIA to reach 1st, but be careful not to set a top distance. Final point, the SILVIA can be on a different section as track from you, e.g. If 1st place marker is 1,000 yds behind. The SILVIA could be going flat out down a straight while you’re in a hairpin or chicane, so the 1st place marker is going 1,000 yds behind the SILVIA, but travels at the same speed so doesn't slow for the chicane! The worst tracks have chicanes before the finish line, like Spa or Le Mans, learn from any losses, track knowledge will help in future events, sometimes waiting by the line is better, but be aware your stopped and 1st place marker could be going 120 MPH. |
1 lap of damage /None |
| Time Trial | Set a slow time, in a Series this event's cup does not count towards continuing your race career (i.e. it does not unlock the next Series). However it does count towards completing 100% of the Series. Running a time trial with a broken car will therefore take no damage and lower the AI of bots. Note: If you play against friends do not be tempted to upgrade your car and set faster times, as this will increase the AI of bots, you could always do this once you've bought all cars :) |
1 lap of damage /None |
| Speed Record | As soon as the race starts, pause, retire, confirm, either retry or continue and re-enter. Note the bot's time is reducing. If continuing doesn't lower the bot's speed try repeating and vice a versa. Once ready to go, don't undo the lowing work by setting a high top speed, brake as soon as you hit 1st place's speed. If you're still struggling to reach first place, the start finish straight is normally the longest straight, you can do a U turn and drive the wrong way around the track, so once around the last turn, do another U turn, and blast down the straight, with all assists off, it doesn't matter if you fly off track at turn one. If the start/finish straight isn't the longest, you can still use the no assists method to hit the top speed, again it doesn't matter if you fly off track. However once you reach 1st place brake, so you don't increase the AI of bots. In special events challenges, there is quite often a no off track clause to stop this technique, forcing you to upgrade to hit the required speed. |
Minimal /None |
| Speed Snap | Speed Snaps are the same "parts of tracks" as Autocross, except you must hit a top speed at the line so set a top speed of 4th or less, the lower the better, then either retry or continue and re-enter. Note the top speed's are reducing each time. If continuing doesn't lower the bot's speed, try repeating and vice a versa. Once ready to go, do not set a high top speed at the line, tilt B will give better control to feather the throttle once at the 1st place' speed, this takes a bit of practice, smashing the top speed will increase the AI. |
Minimal |
Also view:
- Strategies to slow bots down... - Forum post with screen grabs and lots of tips.
Cloud Save / Restore
See the Firemonkeys website for full details on cloud save:
Firemonkeys.com.au Cloud Save FAQ
Firemonkey wrote:
Real Racing 3 automatically uploads your save data to the Cloud Servers once every 12 Hours. This means that if you have lost your save data, you can easily restore your previous game progress (including your purchases) and also transfer this save data between devices using the Cloud Save feature.
During events you can use the Cloud Save and Restore feature to your advantage. Before you start every event, manually do a Cloud Save, if you lose do a cloud restore, this will save a long service after the longer, endurance, cup and NASCAR events.
Once you win do another cloud save before you continue the next event, see the FAQ on Firemonkey's website:
It is very important to wait for the screen to display last updated seconds (or minutes) ago. If you have a message stating backup failed, wait another minute, a wheel will turn in the bottom right corner, the message will show last updated seconds (or minutes) ago and Backup to Cloud button will be greyed out too.
If backup still failed, return to the login screen, log off, wait 10 seconds and log on once more, click continue, wait 30 seconds for the login to complete, then try to backup once more.
If you still have problems: log off, then turn aeroplane mode on, wait 10 seconds, turn aeroplane mode off, wait 30 seconds for the wifi to reconnect, login, click continue, wait 30 seconds for the login to complete, then try to backup once more.
The final thing to try, force close the RR3 app, then with the Wifi on, relaunch RR3, then try to backup once more. If this still doesn't work, the FM server is probably having problems, again.
You can also use this technique to save on spending with gold, for example if you want to spend 1 gold on the mechanic, if you win, the mechanic will be used and the car condition will be maintained, but if you don't come first the gold is lost and the car condition will be reduced, if you cloud restore the car will be returned to it previous state and the gold spend (or even free mechanic) returned.
Note: Before you cloud restore, it is important to login into the same Social Profiles you had previously connected to Real Racing, when cloud saving. Especially if multiple Social Profiles are used!
FAQ
What is a Daily Reward?
Every day the player is offered a daily reward, for further details see Daily Rewards
Why is fame important?
Every time the player levels up with Fame is rewarded, as is the bottleneck currency in RR3, it makes
For further information read Time Shifted Multiplayer and Strategy.
What is farming?
As is the bottleneck currency, one method to earn is by levelling up with fame, this can be done by repeating the top race possible over and over, normally paying for just the Fame agent.
For more details read:
- Thread:31214 - What is the break even point to pay for the fame agent?
- Fame Chart - The objective of this page is to map out the Fame required to increase Driver Levels.
- Time Shifted Multiplayer
What is the best car to farm the 10 lapper EK with?
User:RR3 Michael P wrote:
Any of the three LMP1 cars can reach and win the 10 lapper, including the 919, (the 911's can't).
...either PR93.0 with all three cars or PR94.0 on one LPM1 cars (the 919 is cheapest in spend)...
See RR3 Wiki:Upgrades Section PORSCHE#PORSCHE 919 HYBRID (2014) for the upgrades with PR, the target is PR94, as a guide Upgrades Strategy For 100% Completion requires PR 95, -3 Engine FFU (from fully upgraded). So as as long as the last three engine upgrades are not completed, choose any of the others until PR94 is reached. This will allow enough of the races to be completed, with just the 919, to reach the 10 lapper, then enjoy :)
RomGuyony wrote:
Depends what your goals are: if you plan to get all cars eventually, you may as well acquire the 919 with Showcase Discount (760 ) to run the 10-lapper regularly or get the R18. If you get all the cars, you'll be able to reach the last tier, but I'm not entirely sure how far you can get with just two cars and no upgrades.
If it helps, here are strategies for PR:
- PR:93.0
- AUDI: (+1 Tires & Wheels FRU) for 65
- PORSCHE: PR:93.1 with only R$ upgrades
- AUDI: (+1 Tires & Wheels FRU) for 65
- PR:94.0
- AUDI: (+2 Engine, +1 Suspension, Brakes & Tires & Wheels FRU) for 355 and R$717,300
- PORSCHE: (+1 Body, Suspension & Tires & Wheels FRU) for 90
- AUDI: (+2 Engine, +1 Suspension, Brakes & Tires & Wheels FRU) for 355
- PR:95.0
- AUDI: (-1 Engine & Drivetrain FFU) for 855 and R$2,331,100
- PORSCHE: (-3 Engine FFU) for 258 and R$269,000
- AUDI: (-1 Engine & Drivetrain FFU) for 855
EDIT:
With your 2013 RSR and an R18 maxed with R$, you can reach Tier 18, with your 2013 RSR and a 919 maxed with R$, you can reach Tier 19, which can also be reached with your RSR and an R18 upgraded to PR:93.
With the RSR and either the R18 or 919 upgraded to PR:94, you can reach the 10-lappers, meaning (just in terms of and in your particular situation) the R18 would cost 355 , while the 919 would cost 850 . Although the 919 can sometimes be picked up for free in Road To Le Mans... Plenty of different variables, as you can see.
EDIT (2): If you got the 919, you could also pick up the R18 with no extra cost in , meaning you wouldn't need to upgrade the 919 and could reach the 10-lappers for 760 (still more expensive in that case than just the R18 upgraded to PR:94
User:RR3 Michael P wrote:
...answering a question on Strategy For 100% Completion...
It depends on the question: Which car is the cheapest to purchase in to reach to 10 lapper? Or which is the best strategy for 100% completion?
RomGuyony is correct, to get 100% completion the player need all LMP1 cars, the cheapest one to upgrade and complete the PR95 events is the PORSCHE 919 HYBRID (2014). This does mean the player has to purchase all the cars to complete the showcase events to get 100% in Endurance Kings! Therefore if the player’s goal is to complete 100% in every event, then the best strategy is to upgrade the 919 and don't upgrade the others with , especially if the 919 is won for free, it’s only 258 , if the player has to buy it, it’s a further 950 – 20% showcase = 760
However, if the player cannot afford the 919 the AUDI R18 E-TRON QUATTRO (2014) is the cheapest, in spend, @ 320 to PR94, to reach the 10 lapper. However thinking logically it's wasted to then upgrade the 919. RomGuyony's strategy assumes the other LMP1 cars are not already upgraded with . If the player’s goal is to quickly reach the 10 lapper and the player can’t afford the PORSCHE, the AUDI is an option, the player can still reach 100% at a later time, but will cost slightly more in in the long run, not taking into account the longer time the 10 lapper has been run and gained by the player every time the player levels up. Don’t forget every time the player levels up is awarded, the player will need to calculate their best strategy, depending on their
Is it possible to reach 100% without spending real money?
Read the following forum post on the subject: Is it possible to actually finish without paying?
User:RR3 Michael P wrote:
It is possible to get into The 100% club, given a six week release schedule, the goal is a regularly moving one.
Do slowing the bots strategies work across races and series
Clsj35 Asked, on the Time Shifted Multiplayer (TSM) page:
I'm new to this game - only been playing a few weeks. with a fully upgraded Z4 sDrive (PR30.7) it took me several attempts at the final amateur event in street-spec skirmish, which only has a PR requirement of 23. after reading this, i'm sure i was getting a fast bot draw as i have upgraded my cars pretty quickly and was killing it in the earlier races.
so, now my question - do these strategies work across races and series? for example - can I go back and tank a bunch of races I've already won in amateur and slow the bots down in pro/am?
92.195.33.50 replied:
No - each series like Street-Spec Skirmish in Amateur or V8 Naturals in PRO/AM and so on has their own KI... ;-)
Over one year of bot slowing, it does work. I have regularly started newly created races and series, and the bots are always slow.
I'm in (an early series) what is the best race for me?
The short answer:
| Series | Event | Type and PR | Track | Reward (R$) |
Reward (Fame) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Amateur. Street-Spec Skirmish |
14. Turbo Burst Global Grand Finale | Cup PR:23 | Mount Panorama | 21,200 | 3,900 |
| NASCAR. NASCAR All-Star Series |
22.3 Flag Racing American All-Star 65 | NASCAR PR:55 | Daytona International Speedway (Evening) | 39,900 | 7,300 |
| Expert. Accolade Open |
22. Mastare Global Championship Round 3 | Cup PR:68 | Suzuka Circuit - Grand Prix Circuit | 26,400 | 4,800 |
| Master. Classic Ferrari Showdown |
2. FERRARI F40 Showcase | Cup PR:— | Circuit des 24 Heures (Day) | 37,650 | 6,900 |
| Master. Classic Ferrari Showdown |
21. Cloudmusiq Battle of Maranello | Cup PR:58 | Circuit des 24 Heures (Night) | 83,250 | 15,200 |
| Legend. Endurance Kings |
22. Mastare Prototype Championship | Cup PR:86 | Circuit des 24 Heures (Day or Night) | 155,750 | 28,400 |
See User blog:RR3 Michael P/My car garage, upgrades and progress though RR3 for more details.
For the long answer see: RR3 Wiki:Most Profitable Races for the top race in every series.
Weekly Time Trials Tournaments - How do you get to team A?
Elpreciado wrote:
Any players here that take part?
I'm trying to get into the team A.
Share your triumphs and disappointments:)
See Thread:43982 for the responses.
The Target is too High, How do I Reduce it?
When the speed or time or distance is too high or fast or long, there are several things that can be done to reduce the target
Make sure you cloud save before you start and after a handful of failed attempts try a cloud restore and retry the next method. Sometimes the AI is still reduced after the restore.
- Try offline - if you've been online, you must do a force close too.
- Try online - sometimes the AI target is different.
- Try repeat, repeat , repeat, again lose by a big margin, don't come higher than 4th.
- Try loosing by a big margin, but don't retry, instead complete and then re-enter the race - this takes more time but works.
Sorry this takes so much time, but the AI will reduce. With a cloud restore it's quicker than a long service!
For example, I tried 11 times to reach 1st place:
| Attempt | Bot Target MPH | Bot Name | My Actual MPH | Finished | R$ | Fame |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 196 | merrygold | 189 | 7th | 750 | 140 |
| 2 | 196 | merrygold | 189 | 7th | 750 | 140 |
| 3 | 196 | _thefreak_ | 190 | 6th | 800 | 150 |
| 4 | 195 | Sparx | 190 | 6th | 800 | 150 |
| 5 | 194 | morkRING | 188 | 7th | 750 | 140 |
| 6 | 194 | morkRING | 188 | 7th | 750 | 140 |
| 7 | 193 | Oddly | 190 | 7th | 750 | 140 |
| 8 | 193 | LOLOLOL | 189 | 7th | 750 | 140 |
| 9 | 192 | JKR | 189 | 7th | 750 | 140 |
| 10 | 192 | Jack Knife | 184 | 8th | 650 | 120 |
| 11 | 190 | Pungent Sauce | 193 | 1st | 1550 | 300 |
| Total | 9,050 | 1,700 |
Also see Methods to slow bots down
The Game / Le Mans Keeps crashing
RR3 Michael P wrote:
If you are having problems loading Le-Mans: Le Mans is the biggest data track to load, close the game, go off line (aeroplane mode), try a complete showdown (hold the power for 10 seconds, I think), then start back up, launch the game and turn the Heads-up Display (HUD) off. This helps on my Hudl.
I read a post suggesting using the RR3 Graphics app (AKA RR3 GFX) available from the Google Play Store, (then automatically updating it from their website). The poster advised Le Mans used to crash, but when the graphics is set low, using this app, it loads and plays fine:
- App source: RR3 graphics: This app lets you set a desired video graphics quality for RR3 game.
- Webpage for more information: hitex.lt RR3 Graphics Project
Recently appeared new app in Google Play Store for lowering graphic settings, you can try it also: MV Brothers - RR Graphic Settings
How do I raise a ticket with Firemonkey?
ME7 wrote:
You can start a ticket through "support" in the game. Have to press gear icon, then the info icon. This never works for me, so I always use the Facebook method: Go to their Facebook page and scroll down to "support". You'll then have to login or create a profile if you haven't been there before. Answer as many questions as possible when submitting a ticket to speed up the process.
RR3 Michael P wrote:
The in game support requests can be flaky, try: Firemonkey's Announcements and FAQ home page and click Technical support, the more useful information they receive the sooner they will hopefully fix the problem.
The following information may be useful to get in advance:
Although some fields have a * next to them, to show they are mandatory, actually you can click the continue/next without filling them in, it better to fill in as much as possible.
Player ID
- (Your Player ID can be found in the Help & About menu of the game),
Device ID Number No idea what this filed is for, there is no help?
What is your Game Center Profile ID?
- (Please include your Game Center username as it appears in the game or your profile in the Game Center app.)
What is your Facebook Profile Link?
- (Visit https://www.facebook.com/me, login, and copy the link from the Address bar.)
What is your Google+ Profile Link?
- (Visit https://plus.google.com/me, login, and copy the link from the Address bar.)
Game version (e.g. 3.7.1)
- (The GAME VERSION NUMBER can be found in the Information or About section of the app's settings. For prioritised support, include the version number as you see it appear in these sections.)
Platform
- iOS
- Android
- Amazon
- Windows Phone
- BlackBerry
Operating System Version
- (Which version of your operating system/firmware is currently installed on your device? This information can be found in your device's system settings.)
Device Model
- Free text, your device, e.g. Hudl
Is your device either rooted or jailbroken?
- Yes
- No
Are you having a specific problem? (I suspect these choices change as new problems are advised)
- No Free Gold advertisements
- Device time settings out of sync with server
- Cannot restore correct save data from Cloud
- Cannot restore ANY save from Cloud
- Daily Reward Issue
- Limited Time Special Event issue
- Missing Reward Vehicle from Special Event
- Crash on version 3.7.x
- Problem is not listed or is unknown
- Car shifting gears incorrectly
Choose a related issue:
- App Store Purchase issue
- I am missing something from my game
- I have a technical issue
- I have an account or player profile enquiry
- I have another enquiry
Hopefully FM will fix your problem.
What is usage sharing and where can I check if it is turned on?
Enable Usage Sharing
Usage sharing allows for information on game play to be transferred and stored on FM's servers, in the event of problems this data may be used to compensate players.
To check the setting, click the cog, in the bottom left and then i, the default is Yes.
NOTE: Check the message. Whether you set this to YES or NO it looks like they still collect a lot of information ... "When you disable usage data sharing, in addition to anonymous data, EA will continue collecting data reasonably necessary to operate the products and services" !!!
I'm having problems editing a page or leaving a comment
RR3 Michael P wrote:
I've read a few ppl are having problems leaving comments, the previous ppl have been on iOS or Android devices. Try the following:
- Select Full Site, from the menu at the very bottom of the page.
- manually add ?useskin=oasis to the end of the page being viewed.
- Tap and hold the Refresh icon in the URL bar and you'll see the option to "Request Desktop Site" at the bottom.
Hopefully one will work for you and you can add comments etc :)
A car that I owned has disappeared from my Garage, what can I do?
RR3 Michael P wrote:
See: RR3 Wiki:Real Racing 3 Tips and FAQ#How do I raise a ticket with Firemonkey? above, if you can post a screen shot with a completed showcase, this will support your case. Be prepared to wait a few weeks for a reply. Unfortunately this is quite a common post, FM do sort it out.
For example see forum: Thread:31084 - Purchased car disappeared. Where did my GTO go? - GOOD NEWS UPDATE!!!
How do I clear friends (TSM) or team members from hard races?
Example question:
Billymos wrote:
Hi, there... I have a minor problem with the endurance champions. I want to race the 8L cup at Lemans, but, if i race online, i can't catch up the first two, although i'm faster... If i race offline, the first three opponents are members of my RR3 team and the rest of them are bots. Apart the bots, the three first opponents are still fast. At the end, my best lap is better but i am always 10 sec away from the third, 20 from the second and 20 plus from the first. Any suggestions? The first time i raced the cup, i didn't have any problem and i slowed down the bots, just in case..... Now that i want to repeat the race for more money and gold, it seems unbeatable. (pr reccomended is 94 and i have 94,4)
Sirebel reply:
We really should write the solution to this down somewhere (if we have I'm sure Michael will point to it shortly).
There are a number of things you can do, it's not an exact science and FM keep changing the rules but the options to remove team and TSM players are different:
Removing Team players:
- Make sure you are online
- Log out of all social media in the game (facebook and/or google usually)
- Go into Endurance Champions (but not the event)
- The team mate icons should have gone
- Go offline (I go into flight safe mode)
- Go into the event (you should get only AI bots)
- You can now go back online and log in if you want but this will allow teammates back into the event when you finish.
If this doesn't work then force quit the application, clear your cache and restart before following the process again. If this still doesn't work then there is one last thing to try:
- Cloud save
- Uninstall RR3
- Install RR3
- Cloud restore
- Now follow the process above and you should be fine
Good luck
JPHARP030456 reply:
Joined a team made up of 18 Elite players all level 200+.
This led to having up to 6 (yellow) team member bots during farming in EK, mainly driving fully upgraded TS40's with very superior driving skills, making every farming 10 lapper something of an adrenaline boost. Having to pit up to 5 cars several times proved to be detrimental to my farming efficiency (and my health).
Found a quick and dirty fix.
Quit the elite team and joined a team of new players (16) all level 50 and below.
Took me 3 minutes, and afterwards farming was as easy as never before.
Billpennock reply:
thank you JP you saved the game for me. I joined a team and wound up with 5 bots in the Le Mans farming event I use that were fast enough I couldn't catch them they don't even have to be all that fast since they start in 1st through 5th and you start in 22nd rolling start with the field already spread out by 100s of yards/meters The lead has at least a minute advantage on you that's a lot to make up. I thought I'd add that I used your idea of joining a different team so I searched by typing in an A to the search and the first team I found had 1 person at level 29 I joined and the faster team bots were gone, in fact there wasn't even a bot from the new team. I was back to where I was before my team experiment. Whew, thank you JP and rr3 wiki
powerup777 reply:
Here's the current (8-15-2017) way to quickly purge TSM bots for those harder than heck races- no quitting your fav team or anything:
- While connected to the internet (WIFI, Cellular, etc.), start Any event. As the race starts, but can be before the starting lights countdown, push pause.
- Go to settings (the gear icon), an log out of all social logins.
- Put your device in Airplane mode.
- FC (Force Close) your game.
- While still in airplane mode, launch RR3 again and start any race. Now the TSM bots are gone.
- At any time, you can take your gadget out of airplane mode and re-login to your social network to restore your team membership. Until then, you will win the races as anonymous, but the results will still count when you log back in.
This method has worked for many people. I think there are award issues with running not logged into social stuff, but who cares- you're advancing now with only built-in bots! Happy racing. Leave a message on my wall if it doesn't work. We'll see what we can do to help.
How do I reset my ad I.D.?
Example question: How do I reset the ad I.D. so I can get more ads to speed up upgrades, servicing, and GC/R$ opportunities?
Powerup777 reply:
There are two platforms to consider the method for resetting ad I.D., one is Apple's IOS, and the other is Google's Android operating system. Since Android is more subjective to the mass different devices in use, the instructions may be different by device. So we'll tackle the more uniform IOS first. At the time of this writing, I'm using IOS 10.2 for iPad Air II. Most IOS versions that are kept updated, will be similar.
IOS:
- From within RR3, the gear icon expands the options, the far right side click the Information icon. In Help and About, you must Enable Usage Sharing to YES. Selecting NO will produce unwanted results. Exit FC the game.
- IOS settings, select the Privacy on the left, then on the right, scroll down and select Advertising.
- If the slide switch Limit Ad Tracking is green enabled, disable that. Undesired results such as few or no ads will result if you Limit Ad Tracking.
- Right under that is a blue text selection Reset Advertising Identifier. Touch that text and answer the pop up dialog to Reset Identifier.
- Re-launch RR3 and enjoy a new round of commercials to speed your processes and GC/R$ colletion. Repeat as necessary.
Android Kitkat and above (Note: quoted from ghacks.net):
- From within RR3, the gear icon expands the options, the far right side click the Information icon. In Help and About, you must Enable Usage Sharing to YES. Selecting NO will produce unwanted results. Exit FC the game.
- Once all the apps are displayed on your screen, open Google Settings on your Android device by tapping on menu and then on Google Settings.
- Locate and tap on the Ads menu under Services.
- Tap on "reset advertising ID" on the new page. The page lists the current advertising ID on the same page.
- Confirm the reset when the confirmation prompt is displayed. Once you reset the advertising ID, a new ID is displayed immediately on the same page.
- Similar to IOS, from the Ads screen, do not Opt-out of interest-based ads as well on the same page. This tells apps not to use the advertising ID for tracking purposes and will cause RR3 to not give you as many, or any ads.
- Re-launch RR3 and enjoy a new slew of ads. Repeat as necessary.
How Do I Add The Wikia Clock?
Anyone who wants the Wiki clock, can add it using the personal JS option, see:
How Do I Calculate the Costs for Outstanding Cars?
These two threads may help with your question:
- Thread:55043 - Automatic Calculation for Your Outstanding Cars
- Thread:55841 - Automatic Calculation for Cars and Upgrade Costs
Or look at User:QuickNick/Spreadsheets
..An easy way to keep a record of what cars and upgrades you have and what you still need (to spend)...
How do I get ads on a Kindle?
The problem with not being able to get ads (for gold, to reduce waiting time) on a Kindle is that the version of RR3 loaded from the Amazon App store blocks these ads. The solution to this problem is to install the Google Play Store on your Kindle, uninstall the Amazon version of the game and install the pure Android version from the Google Play Store.
There are several articles available on how to get the Google Playstore on your Kindle, just do a Google on "kindle fire google play store"). See e.g. http://blog.the-ebook-reader.com/2016/07/02/how-to-install-google-play-on-fire-tablets-the-super-easy-way-no-pc-or-root/
Once you have it installed, uninstall the Amazon version of RR3 (Cloud save your progress first) and install the Google version.
Couple of other things: once installed if you want to to reset your ad ID used by RR3 you need to do that under Google Settings (which will be a new icon on your Kindle), not under Kindle Settings - Apps & Games - Advertising Id.
Also, I'd recommend disabling automatic updates from your newly installed Google Play Store, because the Google version of the Kindle app will start 'fighting' with the Amazon software over whom owns your books, and as a result you'd have to download your books many times. The solution is to disable automatic updates, which blocks updates to the Google Kindle app, Amazon will own the app and life is good again.
But I don't want to go through that hassle on my Kindle.
Do you have another SmartPhone? Pretty easy to have the game on both devices. Just link it to Facebook or Google. Then you can cloud save on one device and restore on the other.
Firemonkeys blog even has the instructions on how to do it.
You could probably get a very inexpensive Android device that you use to just play ads on if you don't have another spare device.
You would:
- Cloud Save the game on your Fire.
- Open the game on the second device and restore the game from the cloud.
- Check the balances to make sure it updates and be careful not to press cloud save on the second device accidentally (not a big deal, just annoying)
- One trick is to change the car before you do the cloud save. When you do the restore, if you don't see the car from the Fire, you know you have to try again. Save on the Fire, Restore on Device 2.
- Play ads on the second device. The order is:
- 5 Ads
- 20 Ads - R$40,000
- 5 Ads
- 50 Ads - R$100,000
- 5 Ads
- 100 Ads - R$200,000
- 5 Ads
- 5
- Cloud Save from Device 2
- Cloud Restore on the Fire and your balances will update
Ads - R$40,000
Just don't use RR3 on both at the same time as you can get confused and either lose game progress or lose the ad revenues you generated.
Is there a Walk-though?
Originally posted as a forum question Walkthrough guide? and comment, it is time to add this to the FAQ.
If anyone has a more update walk-though please add the link below:
RR3 Michael P wrote:
My blog is showing its age now, but some of the principles haven't changed: User blog:RR3 Michael P/My car garage, upgrades and progress though RR3
Good luck and enjoy
RR3 Michael P (talk) 18:26, September 10, 2017 (UTC)
When is the last time I can start a Flashback?
116.68.122.235 Asked:
Guys, I don't wont to do this event. If I don't complete it, will I get new flashbacks in the coming update?
Amrosa replied:
If there are Flashbacks, as soon as you download the new update (v6.4), you will get the new flashbacks.
The only time there is a delay is if you start a flashback from the prior update and it is not finished when the new update is released.
For example. If you were to start Relentless the Sunday before v6.4 is released, you would have to either complete Relentless or let it expire unfinished before you see the New v6.4 Flashbacks.
There is no problem to leave one or more unstarted, as they will be immediately replaced when the next update is downloaded to your device.
How quickly can I complete all three Flashbacks?
QuickNick wrote:
You can finish one Flashback challenge and start another on the same day, the only restriction is that you can't have two open at the same time.
A FANDOM user 36.68.40.59 wrote:
Flashback just like its original event. You must complete one stage per day. So, if you start a flashback, the other flashback won't be accessible until you finish/running out of time of your started flashback.
RR3 Michael P wrote:
For two of the flashbacks can end and start the next one the same day, the quickest way of completing all 3 flashbacks is by taking the sum of all 3 flashbacks -2 days, for example, if the 3 flashbacks take 6 days 7 days and 8 days, then all 3 can be completed within 19 days.
I would recommend that racers check out the tips, for each flashback. Plan to start flashback for the best time for the player to end the flashback, which for most players is the following weekend. Also, as with special events start the flashback as late as possible during the day local time.
Index of Abbreviations, Acronyms, and Terms
The following is an index of Abbreviations, Acronyms, and Terms used in Real Racing 3 and on this Wiki. ...expand...
| Item | Description |
|---|---|
| AX | Autocross |
| AutoX | Autocross |
| Bar | Normally referring to a cars condition, there are 17 good or green bars and 7 red bars, the car is considered to be damaged when the red bars are reached. |
| Drive | There are upto 5 drive bars, one is used every time a Time Trial is run. Exception being FU cars have infinite Drive |
| EA | Electronic Arts Inc. is an American video game company headquartered in Redwood City, California. The owners of FM. |
| FM | Firemonkeys Studios is a developer and publisher of video games, based in Melbourne, Australia. The producer of RR3 |
| FU | Fully Upgraded, referring to a car with all upgrades. |
| GiN | Get it Now, referring to a sale price of a car or the option to buy it early (for ) to unlock the bonus series for the car.
|
| GC | Gold Coin is the secondary currency in RR3, it is used to pay for expensive cars, the Manager, Fame Agent and Engineer, this is the bottleneck currency.
|
| LTS | Limited-Time Series, for a list see Series and Special Events#Limited Time Series |
| OMP | Online Multiplayer Tournament |
| R$ | Racing dollar is the main currency in RR3 |
| RR3 | Real Racing 3 |
| SE | Special Event, for a list see Series and Special Events#Special Events |
| SR | Speed Record |
| SS | Speed Snap |
| TG-Sn | The Gauntlet (Season n), where n is the season number, for a list see The Gauntlet |
| Trashed | Normally referring to a car with 0 bars of condition remaining. |
| Trophy | Each time an achievement is rewarded the trophy or cup icon, in the bottom right of the screen, is highlighted gold. Trophy can also be a reference to how many races have to be won in a series. |
| TSM | Time Shifted Multiplayer |
| WTTT | Weekly Time Trial Tournament |
Abbreviations and Acronyms of Series and Special Events
| ! | The Series Abbreviation (and Version) are now on the Series and Special Events page (making this table redundant). This table is automatically generated, if you want to change it please edit the Series and Special Events page and inform the Admins. Thank you. | ! |
The following is an index of Abbreviations and Acronyms for race series and special events, commonly used on forum posts and comments, on this Wiki.
Useful Pages and links
- RR3 Wiki:Most Profitable Races - Most profitable races & Series & Races Including best race for each series
- Series and Special Events - List of every race in the game, in the same order as the game
- Cars (Base Stats) - Every car in the game with no upgrade stats
- Cars (Fully Upgraded) - Every car in the game with fully upgraded stats
- RR3 Wiki:Upgrades Section (Classic Version) - Every car in the game with upgrade and PR values.
- History - Version history of Real Racing 3
Strategy
- Strategy - Including why gold is precious.
- Time Shifted Multiplayer - TSM algorithm and AI, whys it's important to win by small margins and how to slow bots down
- How often does a car need servicing? - Interesting information on car damage per race
- List of sales so far - Every car on sale since 2013 ! Useful for planning to buy an expensive car.
- What are your goals in Real Racing 3? - Interesting forum post about goals.
- Strategies to slow bots down... - Forum post with screen grabs and lots of tips
- Upgrades Strategy For 100% Completion - Upgrade requirements and rewards to get to 100% completion
- Next Update Suggestions - Forum post - What would you think would be cool about the new update?
- User blog:RR3 Michael P/My car garage, upgrades and progress though RR3 - my progress and cars bought (May 2015)
- User:Guillejarque/Sandbox: The way of a Legend - progress though the Legend series, by Guillejarque, day by day.
- R$ 1 Million Plus Payout - Just for fun, every month there are one or two opportunities to earn R$1m+
External sites
- Real Racing's Facebook page
- Real Racing's Twitter page
- Real Racing's YouTube page
- Firemonkey's RR3 home page
- Firemonkey's Announcements and FAQ home page
- Firemonkey's Community help page
- Real Racer Youtube Videos by SiCK-GamER1
- Racer KCain10r Youtube Videos by Racer KCain10r(Home)
Editing
- How to add event data using the Challenge Template? - Challenge pages
- How do I edit pages for Racing series? - Racing pages
- RR3 Wiki:Pages That Need Editing - Pages that need additional content.
- New way of reporting comments! - How to report problems to Kuzz.
- Creating Series pages - help for editors - Info on creating new race pages with gsheet
- Real Racing 3 Wiki:Sandbox - Useful for tests and trials
- New feature for Template:T/stats - Car statistics template.
- RR3 Wiki:Tips and FAQ Template - Template for creating Tips pages
- RR3 Wiki:Series Template - Template for creating Race pages
- Template:H/series - Kuzz's template for Race pages (currently hidden)
- RR3 Wiki: Manufacturers' page template - Template for creating Manufacturers' page
- RR3 Wiki:Special Event Template - Template for special events
- RR3 Wiki:Car Template - Template for car pages
Tips and FAQ History
Tips and FAQ pages start were started to help racers with special events, this page is intended to reflect tips and frequently asked questions (FAQ) while playing the game. Many of the tips are common to special events, while FAQ is more general to the questions raised on the Forum regarding game play and progress.